When I lived in Paris I was all about international food, from dim sum to Korean to Lebanese. But on this trip I just wanted old-school French gastronomie – think French onion soup, crêpes and cholesterol-laden salads. As I’m rarely in France these days, I wanted the classics.
Here is the best of my Paris food diary from this trip (I’ve omitted the so-so places, because who cares?). All of these restaurants and bars were fantastic, so keep them in mind on your next trip to Paris.
Table of Contents
Chez Papa
My first meal in Paris was at Chez Papa, a restaurant that specializes in Southwestern French food. The Southwest of French is known for its hearty food, such as cassoulet and foie gras.
Once I got my enormous “salad” of fried eggs, potatoes, and bayonne ham, I was so happy to be back in France I practically cried. We just don’t have food like this in the states. HIGHLY recommended.
More info: TripAdvisor, 153 Rue Montmartre, second arrondissement
Au Passage
Quite literally, in a ‘passage’, or alley, Au Passage is an unsuspecting restaurant with incredible farm-to-table food.
Au Passage’s menu changes constantly, and features lots of vegetable dishes. It’s a nice respite from all the super heavy food you normally eat in Paris, and I lovedddd the bread and butter they served.
Info: TripAdvisor, 1 Bis Passage St Sebastien, 3rd arrondissement
Marché des Enfant Rouges
My favorite find of the trip was probably the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Hidden behind a green gate in Le Marais, this super well-known food market that has been around since the 1600s. How it has taken me this long to venture there, I don’t know.
What I love most about Marché des Enfants Rouges is how you can find Japanese, Moroccan, Carribean food all in one place. I immensely enjoyed my Sicilian fish dish and prime people-watching.
Info: TripAdvisor, 9 Rue de Beauce, 3rd arrondissement
Café Saint-Régis
I have to admit, I was skeptical of the Café Saint-Régis, mainly due to its location. It’s located on the Île Saint-Louis, one of the most touristy parts of Paris.
But despite its well-trod address, Café Saint-Régis is a gem. I loved everything about the decor, from the wine-racked walls to the black and white checkered floor. And the French Onion Soup was outrageously good.
Info: TripAdvisor, 6 rue Jean du Bellay, 4th arrondissement
West Country Girl
When I lived in France, I was super broke so I ate at crêperies all the time. And due to my vast research, I can tell you – West Country Girl is a good one.
West Country Girl is a laid-back crêperie that specializes in traditional Bretagne food. I had the daily special – a sausage, cheese, and fried egg crêpe that was absolutely delicious.
And for dessert? A salted butter caramel crepe, mais oui.
Overall, I prefer West Country Girl over Breizh Café, which I reviewed here.
More Info: TripAdvisor, 6 Passage Saint Ambroise, 11th arrondissement
Le Baron Rouge
Edna, in addition to many spots on this list, introduced me to Le Baron Rouge. Le Baron Rouge is an old man’s wine bar way out in the 12th. The wines are cheap, as most are under €4 a glass.
If you’re an oenophile, put it on your list immediately.
More Info: TripAdvisor, Theophile Roussel 1, 12th arrondissement
Le Bouillon Chartier
Le Bouillon Chartier is the perfect introduction to un-pretentious, old-school French food. Housed in a giant Belle Époque dining room, Le Bouillon Chartier was opened in 1896 and is still going strong. It’s also really cheap, which is a plus.
As I went here on my last night in Paris, I decided to go all out. I enjoyed quite the feast, as evidenced below:
More Info: TripAdvisor, 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9th arrondissement
Dacouar
After Chartier, I headed to Dacouar, a chic champagne bar in the 6th. If you’re a champagne lover, this is the place for you.
Normally I’m a right-bank girl, but this bar is totally worth crossing the river for. From the chic, Edison-bulb lit ambiance, to the endless types of champagne, I loved everything about Dacouar. GO THERE.
More Info: TripAdvisor, 6 Rue Suger, 6th arrondissement
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What I didn’t love? Le Mary Celeste. I had high hopes for Le Mary Celeste, but unfortunately, I was let down. The food was… meh, and even the legendary cocktails fell flat. My 12-euro cocktail was sickly sweet and served in a cup fit for a child’s tea party. But hey, you can’t win ’em all.
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Your turn! What are your favorite restaurants in Paris? I’m planning on heading there in the next year so would love your advice!
Also, I’m giving away free blogging consultations to the first three bloggers who comment on this post! Just mention in the comment that you’re interested and we’ll set something up :)
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Ah I lived in paris when i was a poor student and mostly ate at cheap places in the 5th. then i went back when i was working full time and got sucked into all the touris traps so this post is a gem! bookmarking it for the future :)
Interested in chatting about blogging :)
Glad you liked it, Sher! And sure, shoot me an email :)
Oh my gosh those Steak-Frites just made me drool. I lived in Paris for a year once, and that was deffo the year of delicious food in my life!!
xx Julia
ExploresMore.com
Same! I try to recreate French dishes here in Colorado but it’s just never as good as in Paris :(
Clearly I ordered the wrong dessert at Chartier – that pastry looks amazing. I’m totally sold on the champagne bar! Thanks for the tips.
When you’re in Paris, you have to eat arepas at Bululu in the 18th – one of my favorite things I ate the last time I was in Paris, and the restaurant is so tiny and cute.
Ooh I love arepas! I will definitely bookmark that for my next visit :)
Great post – my short trips to Paris always leaves us wandering around trying to find good eats without multi course elaborate meals or formal expensive meals.
Your recommendations are perfect since you lived there. Merci beaucoup!
Love love Paris so much, I was there for a little mini break last year via Eurostar from London. I would highly recommend a placed called Buvette for a wonderful night out, I dined there solo and had the most memorable evening.
I’ve heard good things about Buvette! And you’re lucky to be so close to Paris, I’m jealous!
Omggg that French soup tho!
It was AMAZING. That cafe is the cutest.
Reading this just before my lunch hour workout and making my stomach growl!
I only visited Paris once – 15 years ago – eek! Was hoping to go back this summer, but Switzerland won out. I bet I will find some good French food, though!
Definitely! It’s just more expensive. But still good!
LOVE LOVE!! Must read again before making a trip to Paris. I am dying to go back there. To live there would be a dream. I officially want to go there just to eat now :P
It’s definitely a city where you could plan your whole itinerary around food and that would be enough :)
There’s nothing about this being gluten-free or not. Is this food gluten free?
What is gluten?
What a lovely Post. I love to walk on the street of Paris. There are lots of restaurants, and every one of them smells different than others. These are some interesting foods list that no one can stop eating! Thank you, Ashley, for sharing this amazing story with us. Loved your Photography Here:)
Thanks so much! :)
Oh, how I miss Paris. I lived there for about 15 months, and can’t wait to go back! I’ll save these tips for sure! Also, I would love some blogging advice ?
No problem, just shoot me an email! :)
A co-worker recommended Marché des Enfant Rouges before I visited Paris, and I’m so grateful she mentioned it – I loved it! I had unfortunately eaten just before visiting, but was salivating at the sight of that Moroccan food!
I saw that stand and need to go back the next time I’m in Paris! Such a cute little market.
Everything looks so yummy!!
It was all SO good! :)